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Swiss snow climbs (2 videos)

By Richard Pattison on Sep 23, 09 08:19 PM

The Lagginhorn from Allalinhorn
After the disappointment of bad weather ending my Eiger attempt, I moved south in search of better weather in the Saas valley. The rain drowned the village of Saas Fee, in sympathy, I "drowned" myself with Swiss beer, while up-high snow loaded the slopes.

I woke on the third morning and checked the view from my window, my dreary eyes were astonished to find blinding sunshine. Climbing is on! I hurriedly threw gear into my pack and raced from the hotel, no time to lose, it was already 9am.

There are two videos showing my climbs...

Lagginhorn (4,010m)
I had already chosen my provisional mountain and route should I be lucky for climbing weather. I would be climbing alone, so therefore needed a route without crevasse danger or serious technical difficulties. I flicked through my guide book and picked out the Lagginhorn west ridge with a grade of PD (peu difficule - small difficulty).

As seen in the video, there was deep snow on the ridge, possible avalanche danger on the faces but I was safe on the ridge. The deep snow was exhausting, but made for a technically easy ascent as any climbing difficulties were hidden beneath the 'sugar coating'. I caught a guiding party after 2 hours, then "broke" trail for 1 œ hours myself, I was absolutely exhausted, every step was a battle, my foot sinking into the knee deep snow, every vertical metre was a victory. I sat down and allowed another guided party to take the lead. I rested for 30 mins, but took just 8 minutes to catch the party breaking trail - the going was that slow. Another solo climber then caught us and took-up the gauntlet for 30 mins. But it was getting late, our progress was far too slow and the final cable car back into the valley was only 2 œ hours away.

With only 100 vertical metres remaining to the summit, both guided parties and the solo climber turned back. I took stock of the situation and decided to continue - I've climbed a great deal alone, sometimes in precarious situations and felt comfortable with the current situation. After all, it's a long way back to this point, especially from Northumberland! I slogged upwards alone for another hour to the summit shrouded in mist - I spent 1 minute on top taking pictures then hastily retreated towards the valley floor, glissading most of the way down on my bottom. I reached the cable car about 5 mins before the last ride, saving me an extra 2 hour walk! 5 œ hours up, just 1 Œ down!

Allalinhorn (4,027m)

The next day dawned bright as well, but my legs were so heavy and exhausted from the previous day, I chose an easy climb - the Allalinhorn. It is the joint most-straightforward 4,000m peak in the Alps, along with the Breithorn above Zermatt. I completed a simple ascent with spectacular views across the Alps.

This concluded my second Alps trip of the year, I'm disappointed not to climb the Eiger, but still, I enjoyed myself with 3 wonderful days on the Monch, Lagginhorn and Allalinhorn.

The Alps are fantastic, well worth a visit for anyone, plus, the cable cars and funicular railways offer everyone the opportunity to experience the high Alps.

Richard.

3 Comments

Bob Ramsay - Geordie in Geneva said:

Nice to see the climb up the Allalinhorn. Just one question - did you take the "Alpine Metro" up to the revolving restaurant at 3500 meters ? Either way, glad you enjoyed it on one of my favourite skiing areas in the alps. Looking forward to being up that way myself again soon.

all the best from
Geordie Bob in Geneva

Richard Pattison Author Profile Pagesaid:

Hi Bob,

Yes, I did "cheat" and use the cable car and funicular railway out of the valley - but then everyone does, it saved about 4-5 hours of walking up, then 3 down. Us climbers are soft nowadays ;o)

All climbers accept the use of transport to a mountain to a certain extent, but the real debate would be how far up is acceptable, in the Alps cable cars are widely regarded as acceptable by most (but not all), in Scotland they're not. As I only had a weeks holiday, I was glad of the help - plus I was helping out the local economy with my fare :o)

Have a good time when you go skiing, the Alps are fantastic...

Rich.

Anna Heywood said:

Husband wants to do Mont Blanc for his 40th - a couple of years away (and i plan to join him). We'd love to catch up and talk with you - drinks are on us of course.

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