If Carlsberg did bike routes they would probably do this one. Why? Because it has absolutely everything you could possibly want, however make sure you allow plenty of time. The reason being there is so much to do, which is a positive but remember you also have a bike journey to complete so a fine balance must be struck.

A suggestion perhaps would be to follow my route for your initial experience and then return and plan to visit what you missed. Or why not go on line and select what you would like to see.

This route combines some of the best views I have encountered, amazing art (love it or hate it you will have an opinion) and a bike ride which you can brag about.

Why the reference to Canada, well I have to admit I have never been but if I did I would be disappointed if it didn't look like Kielder and for further proof if required I have attached a picture which clearly shows a Grizzly Bear at the far side of the lake.

History Lesson

Kielder water, Britain's biggest artificial water store, lies in Northumberland, within 5 km of the Scottish border. Completed in 1982, it transfers water form the River Tyne catchment southwards to the rivers Wear and Tees. Kielder was built in response to pressure from industries in the northeast, such as British Steel and ICI, who predicted big increases in water demand. But as heavy industry declined so too did the demand for water, winning Kielder the reputation of being Europe's biggest boating lake (according to Friends of the Earth who don't like Kielder). Only twice in its history has Kielder been used to transfer water to the Tees, first in 1983 and then 1989.

Let's make a start; however which direction do you wish to go in? My advice would be dependent upon the prevailing wind as the North shore is more exposed and I would prefer to have the wind at my back for that section.

I will therefore describe my route with the usual prevailing westerly wind which helps on the North Shore. Heading east from the car park you can't miss the trail which does as it says on the tin and follows the shore.

At this early stage I should interject and prepare you or the fact that this isn't a lakeside trail but wanders all over including ups and downs but as usual you are only slightly slower pushing so if needs be!

The south shore (my wife's favourite) really is a treat being neither to difficult or to easy but with a whimsical feel that tricks you into thinking you really are some where else.

You really cant go amiss on this trip as it is the most signposted trail I have ever been on so I wont over describe where you need to go just please go there. After a couple of miles and at the point where the first picture is taken you are invited to join a real mountain bike trail. Why not give it a go for a couple of hundred yards and decide for your self if this is for you. If it is you will revisit Kielder many times to experience some of the best mountain bike trails available.

However I did once try out the Bloodybush Red Trail and consider the title not long enough or inclusive of Bloodyhills or Bloodyfalling off. But make your own mind up give it a go.

After a few miles further you join briefly a tarmac road turning left before the bridge and heading to Kielder Village and Castle.

History Lesson

Kielder village is welcoming to visitors today, but the area has a long and turbulent history lying in a remote area with a sparse population near to the border with Scotland, The North Tyne suffered border raids and warfare for many centuries and William Wallace's army rampaged through here in 1297 and it is recorded in 1311-1312 that Robert the Bruce 'laid waste to Keildir'.

Of the people living in the district, the very wealthy built castles; clansmen generally built pele towers, while small farms had bastles for defence. The Cout of Kielder was a border chieftain, famous for his height. He perished suddenly during one of the many disputes, and is buried near Kielder in an enormous grave.

As time passed to more recent centuries, whiskey distilling and whiskey running became a popular vocation. One of the travelling routes which was a favourite was named 'Smuggler's Leap'. Later Kielder Castle was constructed, as a shooting lodge, for Hugh Smithson, first Duke of Northumberland. Castellated and quadrangular in style, it stood with Pearl Fell towering behind it and with a commanding view down the river looking toward the mountain called Bewshaugh.

Kielder Castle and Village really is the hub of mountain biking (you can hire bikes here if required) and walking and has close by many interesting Art works and activities you will want to experience but you have only completed a fifth of the way. Therefore grab a cup of tea and tiffin at the Dukes Pantry and explore some of the many leaflets available of what you can experience when you revisit.

I will visit some of our favourite works on the north side as we head towards the dam. As you rejoin the trail (backtrack to the bridge you turned off at) you encounter a couple of miles of track with loose gravel and as you have been spoiled with the previous surface there is a descending feeling of melancholy. Good news it only lasts a couple of miles and if you have a mountain bike you may not even notice.

The North side as I mentioned afore does wander a bit and it also most annoyingly tells you mile by mile how far you have to go. This really annoys, please Keilder people remove most of them as it spoils the fun of being disappointed when you find how little you have travelled.

Notwithstanding you are about to encounter some magical experiences so power to the pedal and travel forth in great expectation.

The landscape around Kielder Water & Forest Park has become home to a unique collection of visual art and architecture, inspiring artists to create work in response to its vastness and beauty.

What happens at Keilder is if you have not done your homework (or had someone else do it for you) you don't know what it is out there for you to discover. Periodically there are signs identifying pieces of Sculpture that require a sojourn involving you travelling off your intended route. However if you are suffering a lack of connectivity between diminishing strength and blood travelling to your brain you will opt for the "lets just finish" and therefore miss out.

Our suggestions are therefore two musts that you will encounter on the North Shore that require only a short detour plus a third on the actual trail.

Silvas Capitalis

An enormous wooden head hidden in the forest. Walk in through the mouth, climb up the stairs and take a look out at the landscape through a giant's eyes. Please visitors to our region tell me where you have seen finer.

Janus Chairs

My personal favourite and I would argue the best picnic site in the world. Three beautifully curved rotating chairs of differing sizes on a peninsular. Choose your chair and turn it to face the view, towards the sun or away from the wind.

Remember we are on a bike journey and by the time you reach the third piece of art, Robins House, you are only half way, if you don't believe me look across the lake to Leaplish.

Read the story and travel on as you will encounter Freya's house on the other side.

There are more works of art you will see as you travel and please visit if you have the time as they are all worthy of appreciation. However you may encounter RPS (repetitive peddling syndrome) on the north side as the trail does travel inland and annoyingly follows the deep inlets.

However hold true to your mission as the dam suddenly appears with a welcome toilet block.

I suggest a bit of an energy gathering stop here as you are in for a shock as you cross the bridge and discover how far you have left to travel.

Bad news it does seem to be an awful long way, good news the person responsible for the mileage was a masochist and as you approach Bull Crag Peninsular you find you can shave off a couple of miles (only if you are as tired as I was). It is acceptable and you will still be able to collect your reward in Leaplish.

One last treat, remember the Robin and Freya Myth, well good news you encounter Freya's house en route and how much nicer it is than Robins (she obviously new a good builder)

The Boat Inn is not to be missed, how do you judge a good pub/restaurant.
Good Company
Good Food
Good Ale
Good Staff
Good Views
Good God I am glad these seats are padded

Whoever your God is you will embrace him for providing the Kielder experience.