For this was a big river
I want you all to know that I'm so very proud
This was a big river, but that was long ago,
That's not now
And this is a big, big, river,
And in my heart I know it will rise again
The river will rise again

The last verse from Jimmy Nail's "Big River"

Nowadays the Tyne plays a small part in our lives mostly providing us with leisure and educational experiences. However, looking back the river takes on a different persona and becomes intrinsically involved with the shaping of the Geordie Nation.

For without the Tyne, Geordies could almost have become Mackems.

It was for this reason I decided to take my brilliant, talented daughter on a "made up by me" heritage trail travelling the industrial banks of the Tyne on her birthday. That and I couldn't afford a present.

When you park at the Business Park you are close to Elswick and the factories created by the industrialist William Armstrong. You will encounter several information points referring to Lord Armstrong and his achievements as you make your way into Newcastle and I suggest you read them all.

However it is difficult to imagine what a huge successful business was created here on the banks of the Tyne where you commence your journey so I have included an extract from an article which reinforces the importance of Elswick for past generations.

Extract from "The Navy and Army Illustrated Vol. VI" (April 2nd 1898)

A visit to the world-famed ship-building yards and works of Sir William Armstrong, Whitworth & Co., at Elswick and Walker, on the Tyne, is a perfect revelation of certain of the very greatest achievements of human genius, enterprise and energy.

In ships of war we have our bond of security, and therefore, in illustrating Elswick - to use the famous name for the whole establishment - and describing something of its work and productions, we are sure of presenting a subject of absorbing interest to our readers.

In some respect Elswick is greater than Portsmouth or Woolwich, for it combines the operations of both, besides constructing hydraulic machinery, and turning out a vast deal of work in which neither is engaged

Anna's Verdict - 3/5

Make your way to the riverside from wherever you have parked and head towards the Newcastle Quay side and famous bridges.

This is a lovely flat piece of track that encourages a burst of speed but beware of hidden dangers like people, as you do have to share.

History Lesson

There are several bridges that cross the Tyne and I have selected my favourites.

Tyne Bridge
Built in 1928 and designed upon the (7 months into construction) Sydney harbour Bridge. However we finished an incredible 3 years earlier than the Australians which was probably due to the talent pool available from out of work ship builders at that time during the depression. Other similar bridges can be found in various locations including New York (the American one) and Wylam.

Swing Bridge
This is my favourite as I can remember visiting with my Dad to watch it slowly open and close with a precise clunk.

Built in 1876 it replaced a Georgian Bridge on the same site. Prior to its completion Keels had been used to transport coal and goods from above the bridge to be loaded onto larger ships below the bridge. This was no doubt good for employment but costly for business.

After its completion it provided significant opportunities for businesses to develop and expand, none more so than Armstrong's Elswick Shipyard.

At its busiest in 1924 it had 6000 swings allowing the big ships through although nowadays it is less than 100.

Millenium Bridge
Opened up in 2001 and provides a pedestrian and cycle link between Newcastle and Gateshead who are now the best of friends. The link to the Baltic and the Sage has added significant interest into an area once only famous or a rusty revolving dance floor on a smelly old boat.

Anna's Verdict - 4/5

As we are in the Quayside which is now probably more famous for its nights out I think it would be interesting to briefly look its history, so:

History Lesson

From 1530 (when basically the Quayside was Newcastle) a royal act restricted all shipments of coal from Tyneside to Newcastle Quayside, giving a monopoly in the coal trade to a cartel of Newcastle burgesses known as the Hostmen. This monopoly, which lasted for a considerable time, helped Newcastle prosper, but it had its impact on the growth of near-neighbours Gateshead and Sunderland causing a rivalry that still exists. In the Sandgate area, to the east of the city and beside the river, resided the close-knit community of keelmen and their families. In 1636 about 7,000 out of 20,000 inhabitants of Newcastle died of plague.

During the English Civil War, Newcastle supported the king and in 1644 the city was besieged for many months, then stormed and sacked by Cromwell's Scots allies, based in pro-Parliament Sunderland.

In the 18th century, Newcastle was the country's fourth largest print centre after London, Oxford and Cambridge, and the Literary and Philosophical Society (based near the central station) of 1793, with its erudite debates and large stock of books in several languages, predated the London Library by half a century. Newcastle also became a glass producer with a reputation for brilliant flint glass.

Newcastle's development as a major city, however, owed most to its central role in the export of coal. The phrase taking coals to Newcastle was first recorded in 1538. In the 19th century, shipbuilding and heavy engineering were central to the city's prosperity; and the city was a powerhouse of the Industrial Revolution. Innovation in Newcastle and surrounding areas included the development of safety lamps, Stephenson's Rocket, Lord Armstrong's artillery, Be-Ro flour, Joseph Swan's electric light bulbs, and Charles Parsons' invention of the steam turbine, which led to the revolution of marine propulsion and the production of cheap electricity.

All this and my Granny was born on Tuthill Stairs behind the Copthorne Hotel which in those days was called "The Olde Copthornium" (1)

Anna's Verdict 3/5

As you may be on an all day ride it might be worth thinking about stocking up on provisions. This is where I cheat a bit and pop into Greggs on the Quayside for a picnic which involves a couple of wraps, drinks and essential choc buns purely for energy intake.

Carry on through the Quay side following the well signposted route to Tynemouth. You may make a couple of mistakes but other than falling into the river you can't go wrong. The next place you encounter is St Peters Marina which is one of the most sheltered marinas in the country and one mile from Newcastle Town centre. This I think highlights how much the Tyne has changed and in this case I think the developers have got it right.

Again the track is well signposted and you are now entering into what became one of the most recognised ship building regions in the world. Twenty years ago everyone knew someone who worked on the Tyne and as you travel along you become very aware of all the newly flattened spaces where once huge magnificent vessels were rolled crashing into the river with just a single bottle of champagne.

In many respects things have not changed other than it's now lager and the vessels can be found rolling around the Quay side bars most nights.

I have to be honest and admit this next part is not a picturesque ride as my daughter pointed out, although there are one or two surprise views of the river that can capture your imagination of past glories. But it is a ride that you should complete as to become a fully paid up member of the Geordie nation there is a section on the back of your passport which needs to be stamped "Tynesider"

History Lesson

Wallsend and Walker are synonymous with shipbuilding and in particular Swan Hunter.
Swan Hunter was internationally renowned as a world class shipbuilder. During a 130 year existence, they built over 1,600 ships of various types including more than 400 naval vessels. This magnificent record includes ships for practically every nation including ships like the ' Mauritania' which was built at Swan Hunter in 1906.

Historically a number of different dates suggest themselves as a starting point for the story of Swan Hunter & Wigham Richardson Ltd. but is generally accepted that it all began in 1860 when John Wigham Richardson, 23 years old son of a distinguished Yorkshire family of Quakers, armed with a little paternal capital and a brave desire to become a shipbuilder, purchased a small shipyard at Walker-on-Tyne.

Mr. Wigham Richardson's business at his 'Neptune Works' began modestly enough. In 1860 the shipyard had three berths, covered no more than four acres of ground, had a river frontage of just over a hundred yards and gave employment to about 200 men.
Eventually after many take over's and mergers Swan Hunter Shipbuilders Ltd. owned and operated three shipyards on the north bank of the Tyne (i.e. Naval Yard at Walker, Neptune Yard at Walker and Wallsend Shipyard) and two on the south bank of the Tyne, (Hawthorn Leslie Shipyard and Readheads Shipyard) as well as the Haverton Hill Shipyard on the Tees. In addition, Swan Hunter Group Ltd. of which Swan Hunter Shipbuilders was a wholly-owned subsidiary, owned the shipyard operated by Smith's Dock Co. Ltd. on the Tees and shipyards building smaller ships, i.e. fishing vessels, tugs, etc. at Goole on the Humber and at Willington Quay at Wallsend.

Anna 4/5

Again keep following the signs for Tynemouth and you will pass Segedunum which is a Roman fort and of significant interest although not nearly as attractive a site as those further along the wall.

However we Newcastrians do become a little blasé about our Roman heritage as it is all around us and we experience it on an everyday basis. So, Segedunum is the most excavated fort along the wall and where I think of the wall beginning (unless someone knows better) and is a world heritage site. It also has a viewing tower and reference rooms to keep the kids interested.

This status isn't gained easily and to have a WHS in Wallsend means you should at least visit it once.

What I also find interesting are the other heritage exhibitions on display within Segedunum which often investigate local history. If you visit between 12th June and 26th July 2010 you can also explore the history of "Swans of the Tyne" which links into our previous topic. You will see a range of photographs, technical drawings, film and video footage of Swan Hunter, as well as recorded memories of people who either worked at or were in some way connected to the shipyard.

Back to the saddle I am afraid and on towards Tynemouth and its rewards. Again although well signposted the trail now wanders around the houses so to speak but you shouldn't go wrong. Most of the "back to backs" are making way for cardboard interiors as I call them but let's see if they can survive two world wars. I think if we had just called them "Victorian Terraces" everyone would have bought one and solved the problem.

Next place of interest is the Ferry Port which is more of a marina from the point at which you enter. Prior to this you have just peddled past Royal Quays shopping centre and a well thought out park with an interesting sculptural setting. This is typical of this ride as it provides a varied and changeable vista and experience at every turn.

From here it is not far to North Shields Fish Quay and further temptations to stop here and enjoy you're specially prepared Greggs Picnic at the beach or travel on to the Priory. My recommendation would be the Priory as it is only a couple of minutes further on and the grassy knoll provides great views of the Priory, Sea and harbour entrance.

Every time I travel through the fish quay and ride onto the promenade I find it quite a strange surreal experience, the sudden change of space created by leaving the houses and factories to entering the vast harbour and beach happens so quickly it is like stepping into a parallel world. ( To much Doctor Who I suspect)

On to the Priory and a last pull up the hill to your grassy resting place or down to the small bay the choice is yours.

From here you can either return the same way or get someone to collect you (hopefully with a bike rack) which ever I hope you have enjoyed your ride and experienced more of the heritage and less of the fog of the Tyne.

Anna's overall score for entertainment, education and picnic 4/5

Proof if required that you do not need to buy them lap tops.

(1) Sorry made up the bit about the Copthorne