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Ama Dablam Despatch: #15 Up to Camp Two

By Richard Pattison on Dec 20, 11 11:00 AM

This is our summit eve, the despatch is coming from camp two at 6,000m on Ama Dablam. Today we climbed from camp one and we're now in a position to make an attempt on the summit tomorrow, assuming the weather doesn't change significantly overnight, there is currently a light breeze and the temperature just below freezing, although it will drop further when the sun sets.

Melting snow at camp two on Ama Dablam

There are six tents here at camp two, we're joined by a French team, although they will not attempt the summit tomorrow, they plan to establish a higher camp (camp three) to allow an easier/shorter summit day. Our intention was always to attempt the summit from camp two due to safety concerns, the site for camp three is threatened by an overhanging glacier and has collapsed on climbers in recent years, however, that means we have a much longer summit day than the French team.

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam

Further, we must descend all of the way to camp one tomorrow because the next group of climbers will be coming through and need to occupy camp two. So, tomorrow will be a long day.

I'm here in the tent with climbing partner John, we're not saying much, just trying to relax and stay calm, getting some rest and hydrating before the big day tomorrow. The tent is rustling a bit more in the breeze now but we're optimistic it'll be fine tomorrow.

Above the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam

The climbing today was fun again, with the Yellow Tower the highlight, although I found it much harder today than a few days ago due to the heavier pack. The rucksack affects your balance and ppulls you out from the rock face which is a little disconcerting, but the fixed ropes were very reassuring.

Well, that's it, I'll sign off now, hoping for an early night but I'm sure I won't sleep, too nervous. We'll wake at about 1am and hope to leave at 2am for the summit. We have 800m vertical to climb so that could take 8 hours. See you on the other side...

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